17.8.08

Shrimp and Grits

Regionally southern foods have always been near and dear to my heart. My parents grew up in the south part of Arkansas, which is steeped in the middle of the traditional South. Growing up, the food that my parents cooked and ate were dishes that had been a part of their diet growing up, and I would imagine that of their parents as well. Southern food isn't any different than the food anywhere else in the world in that way. Regions take what they have and find a way to make good food out of it, then it is passed on from generation to generation and it evolves and gets better. What the southern United States have is lots of different vegetables, starches, and fruits. Rice fields line highways all throughout Louisiana and Arkansas. Farmers who sell fresh tomatoes, peas, and corn often sit on the side of roads. What else they have is a lot of coastline and access to seafood.

No doubt shrimp and grits was once just a porridge of ground corn, liquid and a highly available seafood. However it has evolved into a dish that great chefs have turned into high art. For me it is often a mark of a great southern restaurant to have done it well. Because restaurants who survive on the premise of doing classic southern dishes should be able to do them well, and do them with their own spin.

The best shrimp and grits I've ever had was at a Bistro 1896 in downtown Asheville, NC. It was a delightful twist with large polenta cakes that had been crisped in a pan instead of hominy grits that resemble a gruel. It was served with large wild United States pink shrimp and a remoulade sauce that was not a slave to the traditional Louisiana spicy aioli. It had lots of fresh herbs and still a fairly present flavor of garlic. I still remember this dish years later because it was that unforgettable.

What made me think about this is that I went to Harry's Seafood Bar and Grill here in Tallahassee and ate some shrimp and grits not too long ago. Their take on the dish included a remoulade as well. It was a much more traditional one but good nonetheless. It included hominy grits that were stiff (which is a good thing) and there was Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese inside and finishing the plate. The dishes were far apart on approach and flavor but both hit the mark.

Shrimp and grits is a great regional dish that I have never attempted, but after having it on my mind I'm sure that I will soon. I'll update when I do.

2 comments:

More Credible said...

Southern Food rocks my...

Except Smokehouse. That place should burn to the ground and let me piss on the ashes.

Anonymous said...

Your awesome. I want fish and grits, too bad I didn't go with you that place in NC.